Wiring Diagram 62 Ford F100

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1. So now we are ready to go back to the stock ignition switch for the 62 Unibody. Ive looked at some wiring diagrams and pictures via Google, but just cant get a handle on which contacts are which on this switch.

   I think 5 is the main power, its coming up right out of the middle. Any help will be appreciated. Once its all listed I will redo the picture with the correct labeling and post it. Hopefully it will be a help to future board and Google searchers.

   Thanks

   

2. Easy to identify with an ohmmeter..... and check in this order. The center terminal (5) is incoming power.

   'Off', no continuity between any terminals.

   'Acc', continuity between 5 and the acc connection.

   'On', between 5, the acc connection, and the ignition connection.

   'Start', between 5, ignition, and the start terminal.

   That's four of the five, the last one is probably the 'proof' terminal. This one is for checking indicator lights (if so equipped; remember, Ford used pretty much the same switch across the line) and should go to ground (the switch housing) right before the switch reaches the 'start' position.

3. Time to break out the ol Fluke ... Thanks for the steps! Oh and thanks for the very informative wiring thread. I have that one bookmarked.

4. So when we turn it to start there is no continuity between five and any of the poles ... bad switch even though its new, or am I reading something wrong?

   
   

5. Does five have a 'tab' on it? I can't tell from the pic....

7. I assumed '5' is the center threaded stud, and should be the power connection. If it's not reading to anything, bad switch.....

8. Yes it is the power. The other tabs worked just like you said they should.

10. Well I have a generic three pole one I can use for now. Going to have to call Dennis Carpenter tomorrow to see what the return policy is ... frustrating >=(

    Really appreciate the input though!

11. Have you tried your local Ford dealer? More of this stuff than you might expect can still be gotten new from Ford. I've had poor luck with the aftermarket 'exact replacement' electrical bits, I'll try the dealer first...

12. Good idea ... I will give them a try first. But still want to get my money back from the aftermarket switch if I can.

13. Pin 5 is actually for Acc. Give us a minute and Ill check a switch I have here for you.

14. Didnt have a spare switch but 5 is ACC I have a feeling 3 is your power.

    Good luck with it

15. Hmm, I figured 5 was power in since it didn't have a tab and the wire needs to be installed differently.

    Ill run continuity tests that way and see what happens.

16. From memory there should be 2 ON terminals, the ACC pin, a Start terminal and a Power in terminal.

    Check the below link I think there is a diagram in there.
    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=823726

17. Terminal 5 is a battery feed for acc. like heater, radio, etc. At least that's how it is on my 57.

18. I looked at the schematic from 63Compact and it does show the center terminal as ACC. There are only 4 connection points not 5 on that switch, so not sure if that makes a difference.

    If 5 is correct, all my accessory wires hook there and my battery power hooks up to what right now Im calling the accessory tab? Both of those show continuity together when I turn key to ACC.

19. OK, for the curious here is what I came up with...

    3 doesn't seem to do anything. Never any continuity with the others. Could it be a ground?

    ACC side of switch ... 4 and 5 continuity

    ON side of switch ... 4, 5 and 2 continuity

    Start side of switch ... 4, 1 and 2 continuity

    Now I just need to decide which wires go where lol. Thanks again for everyone's two cents.

    

    Last edited: Nov 25, 2013

20. with your fluke check 3 and the ignition housing then you will know if it's the ground.

21. 1. Solenoid (crank wire)
    2. Ignition
    4. Battery
    5. Accessory
    Check #3 to see if it has continuity with the switch housing in the start position only. Some were set up that way to show that the idiot lights were working (grounds sender wires in start position so light comes on).

22. Well there you go the entire mystery is solved. Number 3 has continuity with the housing, but only when the switch is turned to start. SWEET!

    I learned a lot from everyone that posted ... thanks again! I fixed up the picture, now if it gets Googled maybe it will send folks here.

    

    Last edited: Nov 26, 2013

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